Mama Espinoza

 

I left La Bufadora very early and headed inland to get on route 1 south towards El Rosario, my next destination where I would spend the night at Mama Espinoza.

I didn’t have breakfast before I left so when I got to Santo Tomás, about 50km later, I found a OXXO store and stopped to buy something to eat. OXXO is a Mexican chain of convenience stores, with over 14,000 stores across Latin America. It is the largest chain of convenience stores in Mexico.

As I was taking my helmet off, I noticed two little kids, one maybe 10 to 12 and the other slightly younger come running across the street towards me. I didn’t know what to expect and when they got to me they sat on the sidewalk next to the bike. The older one had a rag in his hands and kind of waved it at the bike, I shook my head and he put the rag away. I put the helmet on the bike’s mirror like I do in the USA but took my phone off the holder just in case and went inside the store, they followed me but stayed by the door. I grab a chocolate milk bottle and an energy bar and proceed to the counter. They kept looking at me and since they were inside the store now, I felt comfortable leaving the bike out of sight. Since the young one was looking at the chocolate bottle, I pointed at the bottle, then pointed at him and then waved at the refrigerators and made a grabbing sign at my bottle. His eyes lit up and he pointed his finger at himself as if to say, me? I again made the same gesture and he understood, ran to the refrigerator with the older kid and came back and stood next to me holding two chocolate milks. They smiled at me as I paid for all three bottles and they walked with me outside. Once outside the older one said “Thank you” in good English, and the little one pointed at the bottle and gave me the thumbs up with a big smile, then both sprinted across the street to their home. I ate my energy bar then finished drinking my chocolate and got back on the road. Small gesture but made me happy to make two little kids happy. I had only been in Mexico one full day but had already seen a lot of poor people. It was actually kind of a shock traveling along La Ruta del Vino and now on Route 1, seeing all the houses in really bad shape and cars in need of repairs.

I continued south at a brisk pace but always keeping an eye on my speed as I had been warned about cops in little towns. It was a little disconcerting the first time I saw one of these parked on a main street and I passed quite a few as I passed little towns.

For the most part, route 1 is quite far from the Pacific Ocean but a little after Nueva Odisea the road is quite close to the ocean and I started seeing dirt roads leading to the ocean. After passing quite a few and not seeing anyone or any house I decided to venture into one. The dirt road started solid for about half a mile but as I approached the water it started turning soft and very powder like. I started getting worried because my motorcycle is heavy, I’m carrying a lot of equipment and it wouldn’t be easy to turn around. I also don’t know the area and don’t even know if I’m allowed to be there. I stop the bike and proceed on foot.

It’s about 100 degrees as I walk another quarter mile and to my surprise when I get to the edge there’s a cliff and it’s pretty high.  I look around but couldn’t find a way down. I walk along the cliff until I see a crack and decide to go down.

After I get down I scan the coast both ways and realize I’m totally alone by the water and there’s no chance of anyone being around. I just had to go in the water.

After a nice swim, didn’t venture too far out because I don’t know if there’s sharks or any other bad creatures, I get dressed and then struggle to get to the top. It’s always easier down.

I get back on the road and soon arrive at Mama Espinoza. I get a room for the night and after unpacking my bike head to the famous restaurant.  Tiny room and very dated but good enough to sleep comfortable and really cheap.

In 1967, the restaurant was named Mama Espinoza (as is now known) and in the same year, the promoter of off-road racing “NORRA “, organized the first “Baja 1000″ placing the first check-point at Mama Espinoza’s Restaurant. Since then, year after year for over 40 years, drivers of motorcycles and off road cars leave photos on the walls of this place.  You can read more .

These off-road buggies are perfect to explore Baja.  There were two of them at the hotel and one came in late at night, the big V8 announcing it’s presence from far away.  He pulled into the parking lot with loud music blaring out of its speakers and the music continued late into the night.  I fell asleep with the loud Mexican music playing in the background.  

I took the photos in the morning.